Historical taverns in Milan: the cuisine that revives tradition

In Milan, food and social relations go hand in hand. Perfect meeting places,  Milan's numerous trattorias and taverns help to keep the Milanese culinary tradition alive. Fashions come and go even when eating out, but what is typical Milanese cuisine and what are the traditions of Milan? Let's discover the Milanese culinary tradition with a tour of the best historical taverns in Milan.

What to eat in Milan? What are the typical dishes of the local cuisine and where can you go to find some of that lost tradition?
 
In the 1960s, Milan was full of "trani", small taverns where wine was sold and good food was eaten. The term trani originates from  Apulian wine shops where the wine was particularly strong and cheap. These shops became social haunts especially for the working classes,  taking over from the more typical Piedmontese "piole".
"Trani" were meeting places for Milanese workers where hospitality and social life went hand in hand: at taverns, you went to drink and eat, play cards or morra and there were also the first cabaret shows. While now the term tavern is often used for authentic restaurants, trattorias offer traditional dishes for those who want to rediscover historic food.
 
Traditional Milanese cuisine revives the food once eaten by ordinary folk and is coming more and more back into fashion. From boiled meats to osso buco with polenta, from braised meats to cassoeula, elephant ear cutlets, and busecca or Milan-style tripe, the typical Milanese menu is closely linked to local produce. One of the most typical dishes in Milan, the first and most famous is certainly Milanese risotto made with saffron, butter, and beef marrow, while the typical dessert is panettone which makes Christmas atmosphere unique.

Osteria Grand Hotel: In the early 20th century El Gandin was one of the true bygone taverns with bowls courts and a terrace for dancing; in the 80s, after dinner, many famous Milanese cabaret artists made their début there. Today the Osteria Grand Hotel is a magical place in the Navigli area where you can enjoy traditional food and relax in the indoor garden with a pergola of wisteria.
 
Trattoria Milanese: Since 1933, this trattoria located in the heart of the Five vie serves traditional Lombard dishes in a room with exposed beams and an atmosphere that takes you back in time. Typical Milanese dishes served there are cabbage "mondeghili",  kidney with polenta, and zabaglione.
 
Trattoria Bottiglieria da Pino: In Via Cerva, you can find one of those places that revive the popular and convivial vocation of old-style taverns: simple recipes, friendly managers, and excellent value for money. Since 1968, the Trattoria da Pino has been serving first courses, main courses with meat and home-made desserts and is a great spot for lunch for anyone working in the city center.
 
Antica Trattoria della Pesa: Where in the nineteenth-century goods entering the city were weighed to calculate customs duty, you can find one of the oldest restaurants in Milan: the terrazzo floors typical of Milanese houses and the tiled stoves are reminiscent of a rich past in a taste reflecting tradition. Curiosity: at the entrance of the trattoria there is a plaque commemorating the fact that  Ho Chi Minh onceworked there as a cook!
 
Al matarel: Going to a trattoria and feeling at home: fresh pasta prepared daily, hearty dishes and robust wine make Matarel one of the most genuine trattorias in Milan. Sitting down around a table is an important opportunity to enjoy social relations and at Matarel you can truly rediscover the taste of traditional food.

Al Garghet: This famous trattoria owes its name to the sound of frogs in the southern Milan district of Gratum Solium (Gratosoglio); the menu in dialect handwritten in squared-paper notebooks and the friendly atmosphere of the lampshades with fireplace and piano make the Garghet an excellent thistorical tavern in Milanese tradition.
 
Trattoria Masuelli San Marco: An institution of traditional Milanese cuisine. At this trattoria in the Porta Romana area, now at the third generation of "landlords", you can eat one of the best Milanese risottos in the city, made strictly with saffron pistils. Since 1921, everything here is authentic like Gio Ponti's chandeliers, Thonet chairs, and warm hospitality.

Premiata Trattoria Arlati: Since 1936, this family-run trattoria in the Bicocca district has made itself known both for its typical Milanese dishes and for its church-style furnishings. Once the haunt of artists and musicians (Formula 3, Area, and Lucio Battisti performed there), each room of the Arlati contains paintings and cult objects that make it a unique trattoria in Milan.
 
Osteria del Treno and Sala Liberty: Speaking of popular vocations, the premises of the Osteria del Treno were once those of the Società di Mutuo Soccorso (Mutual Aid Society), where the working men's club for the railway workers at the Central Station used to be. In addition to the tasting menu, mindful of Slow Food presidia, there is also a large art nouveau room with inlaid balconies where you can dine, dance, and take part in musical events.

Trattoria del Nuovo Marcello: Founded in 1928 and run by the same family since the 1960s, this trattoria in via Lombroso still contains the old radio that the workers working across the street listened to. Here the typical dishes of traditional Milanese cuisine are prepared with the same care as they used to be.